Introduction

Rabbits are a lot of work and responsibility, and may live up to 12, or even 15 years old. They can be quite expensive animals with lots of needs, and they also need lots of correct care, attention and exercise, which helps them live a longer and happier life.

The experience of owning a rabbit can be quite enjoyable and very fun if you care for your rabbit properly.

 

 

HUTCH/CAGE:

The hutch/cage you house your bunny in must be at a MINIMUM of 4ft long x 4ft wide, x 2 ft tall cage space, NOT including levels.

The cage/hutch must be able to let air flow through, and if you use a outdoor hutch, it must also be able to withstand storms, snow, rain, wind, etc. while still keeping the rabbit warm during cold weather. This means the flooring must be all or mostly wood. (A small part can be mesh if you want, but not all of it.) The roof and sides of the cage must be leak proof and weather-resistant. (Refer to the picture to the right, to see a proper outside rabbit hutch.)

If you decide to have a rabbit as a free-range rabbit, that is wonderful! Just remember to completley rabbit-proof your home. Free-range bunnies still need to have a cage to be locked in at night and when you are away from home.

 

*Commercial pet store cages usually are not big enough for any rabbit, and remember: bigger is ALWAYS better!

**The cage/hutch must not have a full mesh bottom or flooring, as wire flooring can cause bumble foot/sore hocks.

 

 

DIET:

The main diet you should feed your rabbit is timothy or grass hay. It is an essential part of your rabbit's diet that should be available to them every hour of the day. Without it, they can become sick.

The next most important part of your rabbit's diet is pellets. (I find that ceramic bowls work really well to put your rabbit's food in, because the dish won't knock over and the food won't spill out.) This is what will fill your rabbit's stomach in the morning and keep them full for the whole day. Your bunny's pellets should be grass based, as that is what is healthiest. Ex. Nature Wise rabbit feed, Oxbo Essentials pellets, etc. Small breeds like Netherland Dwarfs only require about 1/4 cup of pellets a day, while Dutch-sized rabbits require about 1/2 cup daily, Rex-sized rabbits need about 1 cup of food daily, and rabbits that are Flemish Giant-sized or larger often need to be free fed to maintain a good weight. You should NOT feed any pellets that contain colored pieces, "fancy" dried fruits or Muesli, as this can cause your rabbit to become obese and unhealthy. Carrots or any other vegetable/fruit are NOT suitable to feed to your bunny as a main diet.

 

And of course, your rabbit must also have an unlimited access to fresh, clean, cold water that is provided through a working water bottle with a metal spout or a large ceramic water bowl.

(For outside rabbits; during the winter a ceramic bowl works best for a water source.)

 

It is also recommended that you give your rabbit a “salad” at least 2-3 times a week. This salad should compose of 2 cups of mainly leafy veggies, such as green or red leaf lettuce. (NO iceberg lettuce. This can cause diarrhea and has no source of protein.) You can also add some carrot chunks, dandelions + dandelion leaves, kale, small pieces of banana, strawberry, apple, and green/red/yellow/orange bell peppers. (For a list of safe and unsafe rabbit foods, scroll to the bottom of the page.)

 

If your rabbit is not used to vegetables or fruits, you will need to introduce them slowly. Rabbit stomachs are very sensitive, and if you all of a sudden add a bunch of veggies and fruits to their diet, they can develope bloat or diarrhea. 

*Although I recommend salads, they are not a requirement. 

 

 

WEATHER CONDITIONS:

(For outside rabbits)

In the summer, your rabbit must be brought inside your air conditioned house and put in a crate (or let loose to roam a rabbit-proof room) when outside temperatures reach 90 degrees F or above. If you do not bring your rabbit inside, they can suffer from heat stroke. If the temp ranges from 80-89 degrees F, a frozen plastic water bottle (that was frozen with the water in it) should be placed in the cage for your rabbit to lean against. This will help keep them more cool, and comfortable.

In the winter time, if temperatures reach 35 degrees F or below, a tarp should be wrapped around your rabbit’s cage so that the heat your rabbit produces will be conserved in its cage and they will not freeze.

When there is a very windy day, stormy day or rainy day, you should also wrap a tarp around your rabbit's cage. This will help them stay warm and dry and out of the wind.

 

 

TOYS:

Your rabbit should have at least one toy to chew on/play with. Their toys must be rabbit-safe and gnaw-able, as a rabbit’s teeth never stop growing, and need something to keep them filed down. Toys are also a great way to keep your rabbit from being bored and chewing the cage. NO toys with string, cotton, or fleece. Rabbits can choke on those products, or get them wrapped around their limbs. You can easily make home-made toys with paper towel roll tubes, cardboard, etc.

 

 

LITTER BOX:

If you choose to use a litter box for your rabbit, you should use a litter box that is about the same length and width as your rabbit. The content inside the litter box should be hay or aspen wood chips, as commercial litter materials bought at the store can damage the rabbit’s respiratory system and lead to organ failure. DO NOT buy litter content such as clay litter, cat litter, cedar, pine, or gravel. I would recommend USING grass hay, aspen wood chips, timothy hay, or even shredded paper (without ink). But if you use hay, your rabbit will be more likley to use the litter box. 

Your rabbit's litter box should be changed every 2-3 days at max. Make sure you give them a large enough chunk of hay. 

 

 

CAGE CLEANLINESS:

If you chose not to use a litter box, you will have to clean your rabbit’s cage every day. This means sweeping out the poop, and wiping up the pee. If you do not clean your rabbit’s cage, many things could happen that will cause your rabbit to die or become very sick. (Ex. Flies lay eggs in rabbit poop, and when the eggs hatch the maggots burrow into your rabbit. If this happens you have to take your rabbit to the vet for the maggots to be removed and you also have to give your rabbit medication. Another Ex. Is that if your cage is filthy, bacteria can easily grow in the cage, and your rabbit will inhale it, causing sickness and potentially death.)

I really recommend litter boxes because it keeps the cage much cleaner, as is less work for you as an owner.

 

 

HOUSE:

(Outside rabbits mostly) Your rabbit should have a place that they feel cozy in. You can buy a wooden “house” from the pet store, or build one yourself.  Stuff the house with hay, and it will help keep your rabbit warm in the winter, especially if they are an outdoor rabbit.

 

 

RABBIT CARE/HYGIENE:

Your rabbit's nails should be clipped every few months. If they don't get clipped, your rabbit may suffer from foot pain, which leads to an uncomfortable and grumpy bunny. Please look up how to trim rabbit nails. If you cut the nail wrong it can be very painful for the rabbit.

It is also optional to give your rabbit a brushing every month or two.

You can use a brush, but slightly damp hands work just as well.

 

 

EXERCISE:

It is not needed, but I greatly encourage you to let your rabbit roam in a safe, enclosed area in your yard on nice days or in your house regularly. If you sit in an area with your rabbit, and just watch him, he will walk up to you and sniff you. He will learn to trust you without being forced. Your rabbit can also run around, enjoy himself. Rabbits get bored just like humans, so being able to play somewhere new is fun for them. If your rabbit is very happy, they may run around and jump up while kicking their feet out. This is called a Binky, and when you see your rabbit do it you know that they are having a good time!

 

 

TIME:

Rabbits are very time consuming pets, if you haven’t figured that out already. They take lots of specific care, and also extra time to be loved on. If you cannot dedicate at least 1 hour a day to your rabbit, a rabbit is not for you.

The total time that it should take for you to care for your rabbit each day: The morning care for a single rabbit usually takes about 20 minutes, and then about 20 more minutes for the afternoon/evening care. But if you want a bonded relationship with your rabbit, you should let him out and play with him/hang around him and pet him occasionaly for at least 15 minutes or more a few times a week. But more time is always better.

 

 

HOME:

You should inform everyone in your home on proper rabbit care so they do not hurt your rabbit. Everyone should learn how to gently pet and hold a rabbit, and what is ok and not ok to feed it. Children under the age of 10 usually do not make suitable rabbit owners, but sometimes their are exceptions. Rabbits prefer people with calm & gentle personalities that are patient and kind. 

 

 

To sum it all up, here is a checklist of things that you need:

 

- A proper sized and weather protected hutch/proper sized cage

- Correct food pellets

- A working water bottle and ceramic food dish

- A rabbit-safe toy or two

- A litter box (optional)

- Timothy or grass hay

- Rabbit-safe nail clippers

- A crate/carrier (for transportation and to bring outdoor rabbits inside on hot days)

- A tarp to wrap around your rabbit's hutch

- A house for your rabbit to stay warm during winter

- A pen for your rabbit to play outside in (optioinal but recommended)

- A rabbit-safe owner and family

- Lots of time for your rabbit

- A patient, loving, attitude

- Extra $$ incase your rabbit needs to go to the vet